Saturday, September 16, 2000

Chinle, AZ to Cortez, CO - 141 miles

We started this day early due to the long distance. I woofed down some oatmeal with brown sugar and milk, a yogurt, some cheese Danish, and OJ. I was a little nervous going out onto the road in the semi-darkness on this Indian reservation. Late night Thunderbird drinking, pickup driving Indians combined with us bicycle-riding idiots would make anyone nervous. Luckily we greeted the sunrise quickly, as a huge 15 or so rider pace line formed. There were beautiful red rock buttes and mesas all over the place and the red rising sun made odd beautiful shadows. We stopped to take several pictures.

I ditched the Camelbak at the first stop. That darned thing is annoying on your back all day. It was essential in the desert, but it has only been getting up to 90 or so in this high desert. Two big water bottles with ice would keep me for roughly 30 miles (A Camelback is a large plastic bag, typically 70 oz, of water covered with Neoprene for insulation, and worn like a backpack).

The next segment we rode by Half Dome Rock, an interesting butte. Then we whipped along in a tailwind into the next stop. I rode with Jay, who was on his every other ride day from crewing. Refueled at the next stop, then rode with Kimberly, the Serotta couple, and Stu. Had a nice big tuna sandwich with red juicy tomatoes, green sandwich slice pickles, cheese, and lettuce. A perfect sandwich. Some AZ state troopers stopped to warn us about nutty European tourist drivers who have a predilection for riding on the wrong side of the road (maybe they are just bad drivers?). Pat, who is an ex-New York City cop, was in her element chatting away with them. Susan said they were the nicest cops she'd ever met.

Hopped on a tandem for some nice descents. Turned off for the "four corners" stop - where Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado all join. Got my picture taken on the plaque. Had a bubble-gum flavored snow cone. A big group left and we descended into Colorado. A few climbs thrown in. Nigel and I rode together, and he added to his story about his three-month truck trip from London to Nepal in 1979. He said this trip reminded him of that one because of the mixed bag of people and every one's different story. To be able to physically do this ride is a feat in itself, but getting the time off is the bigger feat for most.

The last section was into Cortez. Nigel and I stopped for a Dairy Queen shake right before the motel. Mesa Verde, the famous cliff dwelling place is around here so this is a tourist town. Plus supposedly there is a large German speaking population here and we have some motel literature in German.
The dreaded Wolf Creek Pass is coming up on Monday. I met with my Great Uncle and Aunt for dinner and they told me the road up Wolf Creek Pass is in really good condition compared to what is has been like in the past. Hopefully it won't be snowing!